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ABOUT JOHNSON & CO FINE TAILORS
The rarefied world of bespoke has traditionally been one dominated by men. Whether this has been a result of 'jobs for the boys' or a heritage of master craftsmen being just that - master rather than mistress craftsmen - is a political point to argue. Why, for instance, is there only one female cutter on the whole of Savile Row, home to the world's finest suits? But this, it seems, is at last changing. Susannah Hall (based in Clerkenwell, London) has long been a lone voice in tailoring for both men and women, while the shirtmaker Emma Willis has even the tenacity to maintain her position on Jermyn Street, the spiritual home of classic English shirtmaking, sitting herself just up the road from the stuffier, gentlemen's club likes of Turnbull & Asser and just across the road from New & Lingwood, both, like their long-established competitors, male institutions.

Now they are being joined by new bespoke specialists with the female touch. Deborah Carre is one half of Carreducker (see www.carreducker.com), bringing a more modern classicism to hand-made shoes and even launching a Bespoke Club to bring together the best of various bespoke offerings under one monthly special event. Stella McCartney now has added a serious bespoke service to her business, while Gemma Johnson has recently established Johnson & Co - a new company with a sufficiently old-fashioned sounding name, perhaps just so as to not frighten off the more old guard type of customer used to dealing with such grand names as Gieves & Hawkes and Anderson & Shepherd, where princes and powermongers get their two-pieces fitting just so.

Few would argue that it is about time that such crusty industries have stronger female representation, especially as more women - perhaps encouraged by the rising number of designer brands offering custom services - are turning to bespoke specialists to have items made for themselves. Perhaps the big question is just what they can bring to the party. 'It's time tailoring took on a different persona, holding on to its wonderful British heritage and tradition but expanding with a more contemporary edge without compromising quality or fond memories of the old days,' reckons Johnson, who, with years under her belt streamlining another tailor's customer services and supply chain, is more the management type than the tailor, but who has hired some sharp cutters to create an even shaper line. 'With new and younger players in the market, a different perspective has been shaped. But there is still so much more to be achieved and experienced through twists in fabric combinations, colours and small style details.'

So has she found the going hard among the retired colonels and stuffed shirts? "Occasionally I have found that some men think that a woman would not be up to the job and, also not being your English Rose, more of an English Tea colour, I have come up against a little prejudice. But I’ve had the last laugh - they’ve still bought our suits. I am happy to say that most men like the idea of a women on her knees measuring their inside leg and seeing as most men dress to impress women, having a women giving you advice on your suits and image consultancy as part of the package is a winning combination."

So is that the secret, a soft hand in the measuring department? Surely not! Look closer and a new breed of craftswoman is offering a new, contemporary style of craft.